Cars for Sale:
1951 Ford Custom Tudor Sedan
car has been sold. sorry.
Body/Exterior:
No major rust or rot; Car has been painted at least once and had the rocker panels and lower quarters re-worked at an amateur level. All metal repair, but with a fair amount of filler and some rivets poking through. This is a driver level car. Paint all takes a shine, chrome is appropriate for the condition of the car, and there are no major imperfections. The car has “patina” so to speak. Also has a pretty decent set of Coker wide whitewalls and tubes. Couple original hubcaps and a couple repop. Car has been lowered around 3-4” using springs and blocks in the back, springs in the front, and all new shocks.
Interior:
All original. only thing no stock/original appears to be the carpet (maybe) and I installed lap belts. Other than that, the interior is completely original and shows moderate wear. The top bolster of the back seat it sun cracked and the passenger corner of the front seat back has significant wear from people getting in and out of the back seat. This is an honest car with honest wear. Everything works, more or less. The wipers don’t. The radio doesn’t, and the speedo requires a solid WHACK! on the top of the dash to free it up, but it does work. Even the dome lights come on when you open the doors.
Drivetrain:
Rebuilt and BUILT 8BA Flathead V8. Bored .080” over, stroked from 3.75” to 4.00” using Mercury crankshaft, netting approx 266 Ci. Edelbrock Cylinder heads, Edelbrock 3 carburetor intake, Chevy mechanical advance distributor, 3 new production Stromberg 97 carburetors, Schneider 270F camshaft, Johnson hollow tappets, Lincoln Zephyr valve springs, Stainless Steel 1.5” chevy valves, Graphtech head gaskets, Reds tubular Headers, Bob Drake water pumps, Aluminum timing gear, Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer, Custom 2 row Aluminum radiator, 6V +ground alternator, Flex Fan, and probably more that I am forgetting. Has original transmission with brand new clutch disk and pressure plate. Original driveshaft. Original rear end with brand new wheel bearings and a 3.54 ring and pinion chuck out of a 1953 Ford, freshly rebuilt.
BRASS TACKS:
This is an unfinished project to be perfectly clear. The car does sort-of run and drive. Everything except the wipers and horn are fully functional. The lights all work. The doors stay closed. The brakes work. The tires are in good shape. This car legitimately needs 2 things; Tuning and wiring. The 3 carb setup and ignition timing need to be tuned by someone with plenty of time and some serious expertise. It currently runs but needs an electric fuel pump as every mech pump I’ve tried has failed in short order. Also, the wiring on this car is still 100% original and FABRIC COATED. This isn’t reliable or safe after 60+ years. This is a great car for someone to put a little effort into and have a fun driver. Its presentable but far enough from mint that you won’t be afraid to park it at a cruise night and go into dinner. You will not find a more original, well sorted car. Yes it needs finishing and will continue to need maintenance and repairs, but this car hides nothing and has no mysteries. I have been through this car from front to back and now it VERY Well and it comes with some spare parts. I am looking to hopefully (ideally) sell the car. I am asking $11,000.000 or best reasonable CASH offer. If you want to haggle price with me, you best have a pile of cash. If you plan to try to write me a check or bring a money order or some other BS, the price is $11,000.00 and not a penny less. If you’d like to play the “lets make a deal” game, then you better have cold, hard cash to make a deal with. YES, I am sure you can find shoebox fords for less than half what I’m asking. Im sure you can find “restored” versions for the same or less as well. BUT, you won’t find a car with less mystery and less surprises. This car hasn’t just had some lipstick thrown on it to sell. As I said, Ive been through the car bumper to bumper and know every nut and bolt. I just don’t really have the time to finish it and have more or less lost interest. Come by, take a look, and be happy with the deal. That simple. We can throw it on my lift and you can check over the whole car. I and this car have nothing to hide. Also willing to trade for a Toyota MR2 Turbo from 93,94, or 95, a Toyota MR2 Spyder from 03, 04, or 05, or maybe an imported RHD Japanese vehicle from Toyota or Honda. Try me. The worst I can say is no. Absolutely no trades for anything other than the 3 vehicles/vehicle types I mentioned. Thankyou.
Body/Exterior:
No major rust or rot; Car has been painted at least once and had the rocker panels and lower quarters re-worked at an amateur level. All metal repair, but with a fair amount of filler and some rivets poking through. This is a driver level car. Paint all takes a shine, chrome is appropriate for the condition of the car, and there are no major imperfections. The car has “patina” so to speak. Also has a pretty decent set of Coker wide whitewalls and tubes. Couple original hubcaps and a couple repop. Car has been lowered around 3-4” using springs and blocks in the back, springs in the front, and all new shocks.
Interior:
All original. only thing no stock/original appears to be the carpet (maybe) and I installed lap belts. Other than that, the interior is completely original and shows moderate wear. The top bolster of the back seat it sun cracked and the passenger corner of the front seat back has significant wear from people getting in and out of the back seat. This is an honest car with honest wear. Everything works, more or less. The wipers don’t. The radio doesn’t, and the speedo requires a solid WHACK! on the top of the dash to free it up, but it does work. Even the dome lights come on when you open the doors.
Drivetrain:
Rebuilt and BUILT 8BA Flathead V8. Bored .080” over, stroked from 3.75” to 4.00” using Mercury crankshaft, netting approx 266 Ci. Edelbrock Cylinder heads, Edelbrock 3 carburetor intake, Chevy mechanical advance distributor, 3 new production Stromberg 97 carburetors, Schneider 270F camshaft, Johnson hollow tappets, Lincoln Zephyr valve springs, Stainless Steel 1.5” chevy valves, Graphtech head gaskets, Reds tubular Headers, Bob Drake water pumps, Aluminum timing gear, Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer, Custom 2 row Aluminum radiator, 6V +ground alternator, Flex Fan, and probably more that I am forgetting. Has original transmission with brand new clutch disk and pressure plate. Original driveshaft. Original rear end with brand new wheel bearings and a 3.54 ring and pinion chuck out of a 1953 Ford, freshly rebuilt.
BRASS TACKS:
This is an unfinished project to be perfectly clear. The car does sort-of run and drive. Everything except the wipers and horn are fully functional. The lights all work. The doors stay closed. The brakes work. The tires are in good shape. This car legitimately needs 2 things; Tuning and wiring. The 3 carb setup and ignition timing need to be tuned by someone with plenty of time and some serious expertise. It currently runs but needs an electric fuel pump as every mech pump I’ve tried has failed in short order. Also, the wiring on this car is still 100% original and FABRIC COATED. This isn’t reliable or safe after 60+ years. This is a great car for someone to put a little effort into and have a fun driver. Its presentable but far enough from mint that you won’t be afraid to park it at a cruise night and go into dinner. You will not find a more original, well sorted car. Yes it needs finishing and will continue to need maintenance and repairs, but this car hides nothing and has no mysteries. I have been through this car from front to back and now it VERY Well and it comes with some spare parts. I am looking to hopefully (ideally) sell the car. I am asking $11,000.000 or best reasonable CASH offer. If you want to haggle price with me, you best have a pile of cash. If you plan to try to write me a check or bring a money order or some other BS, the price is $11,000.00 and not a penny less. If you’d like to play the “lets make a deal” game, then you better have cold, hard cash to make a deal with. YES, I am sure you can find shoebox fords for less than half what I’m asking. Im sure you can find “restored” versions for the same or less as well. BUT, you won’t find a car with less mystery and less surprises. This car hasn’t just had some lipstick thrown on it to sell. As I said, Ive been through the car bumper to bumper and know every nut and bolt. I just don’t really have the time to finish it and have more or less lost interest. Come by, take a look, and be happy with the deal. That simple. We can throw it on my lift and you can check over the whole car. I and this car have nothing to hide. Also willing to trade for a Toyota MR2 Turbo from 93,94, or 95, a Toyota MR2 Spyder from 03, 04, or 05, or maybe an imported RHD Japanese vehicle from Toyota or Honda. Try me. The worst I can say is no. Absolutely no trades for anything other than the 3 vehicles/vehicle types I mentioned. Thankyou.
Local MR2’s For Sale
1987 Barn Find MR2 with 47,000 miles
~~SOLD!!!
Here it is. The MR2 with all the right vibe to just drive and enjoy. This car was found nearly all original, hold for a repaint and rear windshield louvers. It has 47,000 miles and drives well. The body has its fair share of stains and a few dings here and there, but no body rot and minimal surface rust here and there on the chassis. If you're looking for an MR2 to restore or simply just drive and enjoy for a long time to come, this is a great car for you.
$6,000 or best reasonable offer.
Contact us for more info.
$6,000 or best reasonable offer.
Contact us for more info.
1987 Toyota MR2
SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!
~ 110,000 miles
~ manual transmission
~ runs good, but does not drive due to bad clutch line.
This was intended to be a parts car, but it runs too good and needs relatively little to be a good driver. Has some typical but very fixable rust on the rear quarters. Paint is smoked but takes a passable shine. Salvageable interior. Full power options.
#SOLD
Contact : [email protected]
SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!
~ 110,000 miles
~ manual transmission
~ runs good, but does not drive due to bad clutch line.
This was intended to be a parts car, but it runs too good and needs relatively little to be a good driver. Has some typical but very fixable rust on the rear quarters. Paint is smoked but takes a passable shine. Salvageable interior. Full power options.
#SOLD
Contact : [email protected]